A picnic in the Scottish Highlands is not simply lunch eaten outdoors. It is a proper occasion, a slow hour or two set against a backdrop of heather, loch and sky that has not changed in centuries. But it is also an undertaking that rewards a little forethought. The weather here can turn from warm sunshine to slanting rain within twenty minutes, the midges are famously committed, and the ground is rarely as flat as it appears from the car. Pack well and the experience becomes something close to luxurious. Pack badly and you will be back at the vehicle within ten minutes, clutching a soggy sandwich and swearing at the wind.
What follows is a practical list gathered over many seasons of eating outdoors in the glens. None of it is heavy, and most of it will fit in a single basket or rucksack.
The single greatest comfort upgrade to any Highland picnic is a proper groundsheet. Damp grass will soak through a cotton blanket in minutes, and heather is springy enough to tip a flask over. A waterproof-backed rug or a laminated picnic mat solves both problems at once, giving you a dry, level surface to sit on. If you want to lean into the occasion, lay a lambswool or tartan blanket over the top of it — warm to sit on, and pleasingly in keeping with the surroundings.
Even in high summer, a windproof outer layer is essential rather than optional. Sheltered glens can feel Mediterranean at two o'clock and distinctly Arctic by four, particularly once you are sitting still. The trick is layering: a base layer that wicks, a warm mid-layer, and a windproof and water-resistant shell on top. Trousers rather than shorts are wise in long grass, both for ticks and for the midges that gather around bare ankles.
Midges are the great leveller of Highland outdoor life. They are at their worst from late May to September, most active at dawn and dusk, and largely defeated by a light breeze. A head net costs almost nothing, weighs nothing, and transforms a miserable half hour into a civilised one. Pair it with a reputable repellent and long sleeves, and choose a spot with a bit of air moving through it. On the other side of the ledger, the Highland sun is deceptively strong on a clear day, so sunscreen and sunglasses earn their place in the bag too.
There is no finer piece of picnic equipment than a good vacuum flask. Hot tea, coffee or a clear soup keeps morale high when the mist rolls in, and a flask of cold water is equally welcome on a still, warm afternoon. Choose food that travels well and is easy to eat sitting down: oatcakes, good cheese, smoked salmon, cold roast meats, decent bread, and a handful of berries or shortbread to finish. Enamel or stainless steel plates and mugs are worth the small extra weight, as they will not blow away or crack. A hip flask of whisky is, of course, entirely in keeping with the setting — a modest dram shared at a viewpoint is one of the great Scottish pleasures.
Where you sit matters as much as what you carry. Look for a level, dry patch on a south-facing slope, with a wall, boulder or stand of Caledonian pine at your back to break the wind. Stay well away from livestock — Highland cattle and sheep are curious and will happily investigate an unattended hamper, and a bull with calves should always be given a wide berth. Avoid ground-nesting bird areas in spring and early summer, and keep clear of watercourses where you might disturb spawning beds.
Finally, take everything home with you. Bring a couple of bin bags or a dry bag for rubbish, food scraps and wet clothing, and check the ground before you leave for anything dropped or forgotten. Leave gates as you find them, keep dogs under close control, and be mindful of deer stalking on the hill in autumn. A Highland picnic enjoyed responsibly leaves nothing behind but footprints — and the memory of a very good lunch indeed.
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